Sometimes living in the city can really take the living out of us. So when that happens, we run away to that little place of solace. You know…that happy place with so many happy memories some of us retreat to once in a while… where time travels a little bit slower and we feel a little younger and where natural beauty and aura of the place fills the lungs with a new breath of life.

This is where I go…Terengganu.

To the fine stretch of beaches…all 200kms of coastline. Often the long strips of sandy white beaches are deserted - left to a few local fishing folk from nearby villages and myself. Feet sinking into beautiful fine sand, looking far ahead and wondering where the beach would take me. Clear, cloudless blue skies above and the cool sea breeze whispers only bliss…no terrible deadlines, no haughty voices and no formal dress codes.

The people of Terengganu are indeed a pleasant lot. Waving to the villagers as I stroll past - they, returning my greetings wholeheartedly, each wearing a wide grin inviting me to join them in their idle chatters. Eagerly accepting their invitation for a chat, watching attentively whilst politely replying to the often repetitive, slightly prying questions, the 'where are you from, are you working, are you married etc…' as the women gutted the freshly caught squids, slicing them into halves and laying them in rows on mats to be dried in the sun. Sun dried squids and (sea) salted fish are delicious and are cooked and eaten in a number of ways. The squids are often grilled, sliced (and sometimes caramelised) and made into snacks, or used to add flavour to soups; whereas the salted fish is grilled and cooked with vegetables or used as a side dish with rice to help whet the appetite, amongst numerous other ways.

History

The livelihood of these folks has always been intrinsically linked to the riches of the sea. Ever since the day the Indian and Arab merchants discovered the trading sea route to China, they have traded with the local 'seapeople'. Scholars believe that the Indian and Chinese traders had taken to the sea rather than overland because of the growing unrest in Central Asia. Malay Peninsular and Sumatra benefited from this strategic and economic move and went on to prosper for centuries as the politically savvy rulers in Sumatra and Malay Peninsular ensured that ships travelling through the Straits of Malacca were not exposed to pirate attacks.

Foreign demands for jungle and sea produce was a lucrative business for the local people. The 'orang laut' or sea people of Terengganu were expert divers and they knew the sea intimately. Caught in a sudden storm, they could travel through visibility so low one could not see past the bow, directing their perahu (boats) round outcrops, away from sandbanks and shallow reefs to the safety of a storm shelter. In the early centuries, orang laut made a living out of collecting cowries, turtle shells, black corals etc to be carved into adornments. The Chinese traders who were already in this part of the world as early as 2nd century AD. They were particularly interested in supplying the growing demands back home for sea slugs used in medicinal concoctions and also tortoiseshell for decorative purposes. These were good times for the fishing community, they prospered from the trade with these foreigners. The new traders were also very interested in the jungle produce such as rattan, balsamic oil extracted from trees, beeswax and sandalwood. The locals would go into the jungles to hunt and harvest for the merchants.

Not only was the sea full of riches but so was the jungle. Sultan Umar, the 9th Terengganu ruler who ruled from 1839 till 1876 related the story of how the name 'Terengganu' came about.

How Terengganu got its name…

One day a group of hunters from the neighbouring state of Negri Pahang came to hunt at Ulu Terengganu. By the riverbank, a member of the group found a large incisor (taring). Unable to identify as to which animal possessed such a huge incisor, another remarked, 'it is the incisor of Anu'. Malays believe that within the boundaries of the jungle, it is taboo to mention the actual name of wild animals for fear that they may appear unexpectedly. Anu was the nickname for tiger. A little further along, the hunters stumbled into a freshly killed deer. They took the deer back to the village and when asked where they had killed such a beautiful beast, the hunters replied, ' at Taring Anu…'. Hence, the name 'taringanu' - was used. There are indeed, many differing stories as to how the name came about and this is only one of them.

The Oily Discovery

For centuries after, Terengganu's economy relied heavily on paddy farming, fishing and timber. Then in the 1970's, offshore deposits of oil and gas were discovered. The familiar landscape began to change. The scenes of the old ports were transformed almost overnight into bustling modern towns. New highways, bridges and well-maintained coastal roads connected the sleepy villages and towns with the rest of the country.

Even with so much advancement in the state's economy, there are a number of places in Terengganu left with much of the traditional culture and livelihood still very much alive. But to get to these areas, one must have own transportation. These places are off the public transportation routes and are difficult to get to…but if you wish to really get a feel of Malaysia…self-drive or personalised tours are the best way to travel.