A day’s trip to the Sira

We stayed at Banding Island Resort on the first night after arriving late in the evening in time for a beautiful fiery sunset over the lake. It took us roughly 5 1/2 hours (and 300km) on a leisurely drive from Kuala Lumpur to Banding Island and through some of the most scenic roads in the Peninsular. Perhaps one of the main reasons that the area has retained its natural state, is because of the CPM.

From 1948 until 1989 , the entire forest of Belum and Temenggor was considered a ‘black area’ and was placed under a State of Emergency. The communist party of Malaya (CPM) were extremely active in the area. According to sources, the East-West Highway was proposed by an army general who believed that with a road cutting through the area would hamper the communists’ movements. So if we were to drive through the area in those days, there would be a 6.00pm to 6.00am curfew on travellers using the road. To be stranded between those times along the highway meant that the traveller would be on his own...no locals would dare enter the area after dusk. During the early years, this road was constantly under threat of being bombed and sabotaged by renegades. But since the signing of the Haadyai Accord in 1989, all that has subsided and peace reigns over the area now. (except for the marching loggers and the rowdy eco-tourists!).

The forest canopy reflects a spectrum of autumn colours, tightly knitted into the blue horizon like a lovely, cosy, warm cardigan. The beauty of undisrupted forest cover is indescribable. The warmth and the voice of the rainforest beckons the unsuspecting to venture into the heart of Mother Nature’s creation. Standing at one with the forest at Temenggor, it is unimaginable ……. we are stepping into a geological prehistory. The ancient limestone hills are dated at 220million years old. Some of the limestone islands at the southern reaches of the lake were once majestic rock cliffs dating back to 400 million years ago….before the Jurassic era which stands only at 22million years ago. These are said to be among the oldest outcrops in Malaysia.

Armed with such rich information about the wonders of the rainforest, we headed off for a day’s trip to scour and explore the area. The one day trip with 2 guides and a boat ride can cost some RM140 to RM210, depending on the distance from the take off-point and back. We hopped onto a speed boat and was whisked away. Skimming over glassy clear water,shooting pass numerous islets along the way.

Upon hearing the wrrrrr of the boat’s engine, Orang Asli children came running to the edge of their little island, frantically waving at us with smiles stretching from ear to ear. We waved back, watching their tiny little faces dissolve into the horizon as our boat bounded ahead - deeper into the upper reaches of the lake’s tributary.

There were many little islands occupied by small groups of Orang Asli and we soon learnt that the other unoccupied islands are for sale. That piqued our interest, for wouldn’t it be a dream come true to own an island….one that you can call HOME? The dream bubbles above our heads soon popped upon hearing the words of warning from our guide,’ But the only problem is that the islands disappear during the rainy season , when the water rises.' Now, wouldn't that be just our luck!

The wind in our hair soon sent those thoughts far away from our minds. Along the way, there were floating barges manned by Thai workers. They were apparently underwater loggers. Armed with just a chainsaw and a breathing hose, they dive as deep as 100feet to harvest the large logs from the bottom of the lake. These men really make a living out of risking their lives.

underwater logging

45minutes into the boat ride, we arrived at Kampung Chiong where we registered ourselves before the trek. It is mandatory for trekkers to register at the post - in case any unfortunate incidents should occur, the authorities are able to trek us. (or identify us!)

Our objective for the day’s trek was to make it to the Sira or the natural Salt Lick.

Now, armed with rich knowledge of the forest after the briefing and the reading - one would believe that it would be a totally enriching experience, right? For many that would be true….but why was it that no one told us about the lee….eeeeeek…ches?! It takes a little while to accustom to the fact that we were no longer in the domain of our little creature comforts and that this is now the domain of creatures’ comfort!

We trekked through brooks that flowed sparkling clear crisp cold water, collected and funnelled down from the surrounding limestone hills. Cupping to our lips, we tasted water for the first time. So sublime it soothed our parched throats like sweet honey from the heavens. Agua de beber!

We were going through the motion as if for the first time. Even the ubiquitous leeches gave us a reason to believe that with such a population of blood-suckers out here, there certainly should be as many hosts too. In most cases, that is true…leeches only survive where there is an abundance of food. Then it dawned on us…there may be quite a few pairs of eyes squinting back at us through the veil of lianas not too far away. A disgruntled sound from a close distance confirmed that we really were being spied on. But it was only a wandering wild boar. Only!

After a good educational tour around the area, we headed off to the river for a cool dip. On the way back to our little boat, we bumped into a couple of orang asli. They were having a simple lunch of fruits and even with so little they had with them, they readily offered us their share.

The trip had been a long anticipated one and although we were a little disappointed that we hadn’t chanced upon any of the wildlife who left a great many clues of their existence all along the way but it had been a great trip …if nothing else , it was a trip of learning, experience and of sharing. Click for more on the Belum rainforest

 

more on updates - temenggor dam story...

JM Travel Tools...

make your travel plans easier... use our tools!