The trip downriver

comfortable boat ride down the river towards kenong rimba

There were 7 of us in the group, marching single filed squeezing through the crowded alleyway of food stalls, down the grassy bank of Sungei Jelai (Jelai River) and scrambling onto a rather unsteady, long wooden boat.

Appu had gone ahead to pick up his gear at his village, just a little downriver. We were led by an elderly boatman who smiled a lot and spoke little, realising later that this was because he speaks no English at all. He made a few recognisable signs to the guys seated indicating that he needed help to push the boat off the muddy banks and after a few minutes of shoves and grunts, we were off.

Appu joined us a little while later and we meandered slowly down the river. Fishermen out mending their nets and hauling in their catch, families having their midday bath and sloshing their washing in the shallow waters, kingfishers darting in and out, monkeys leaving their sanctuary high up in the canopy for a cool drink by the river.What a joy to just lay back and watch the world go by.

village life at Kampung Dusun

Before long, we were steered into a little tributary, the Kesong River (Sungai Kesong). We got off at the jetty and walked a short distance of about 10minutes to Kampung Dusun, a little village of a few houses and a shop. Here, Appu topped up our food supply of fresh eggs from the shop. He also took us around the little orchard behind the shop and gave a short demonstration on rubber tapping and showed us a variety of fruit trees found there. We found out later that when not taking trekkers into Kenong Rimba, Appu helps his family tap rubber at their own rubber plantation.

The villagers at Kampung Dusun till the land nearby, planting wet paddy and maize; and tending to their small plots of rubber plantation. The clearing around the sleepy village is a great place for bird watching. For advent birdwatchers, it is possible to arrange a stay at Kampung Dusun. According to Appu, a great variety of forest birds leave their forest cover in search of food around land clearings. Moreover, it is understandably much easier to spot birds out of the enclosed jungle cover. Talk to Appu ...he may be able to arrange accommodation for you. Please c. bird list compiled by WWF Malaysia at the end of the article.

Into the jungle

herbs found around the village

It was already reaching noon by the time we've had a walk round the orchard. The sun was beating down relentlessly on us. To avoid being frazzled we hurried along the village road and onward into the park. As we stepped into the forest cover, the effect was immediate! The cool, damp surroundings engulfed us.. which was a welcome from the intense heat of the sun. Appu showed us an endless list of medicinal herbs along the path. Anything from bites, scratches and gashes to asthma, diarrhoea, fever and even aphrodisiacs - there was one natural medicinal remedy for each sort of complaint. Most of these shrubs and scrawny plants seemed so insignificant to us but to the locals, even the most insignificant has a powerful antidote.

This was the right time to visit the jungle. A number of tree and plant species were in full bloom, breaking the monotony of green and brown hues with a burst of radiant colours. Appu insists that it would be even better during the rainy seasons when the fruiting and flowering is in its full glory. It's not a wonder that there can be wetter days - the tropical rainforests as we have here in Malaysia receives rain for at least 200days or 2500mm in a year!

We were lucky. Our stay in the jungle was not cursed with heavy rains or flash floods. The guides are very particular about the mention of weather in the jungle. For Appu (who treats it like an unmentionable curse!), a mere mention of the word 'rain' meant that there would be sleepless nights of torrential downpours! But do try it, just to irk him a little?!

greater horse shoe bat

There are a number of caves scattered along the way to the first camp (at the base of Gunung Kesong). The guides are rather fond of taking their trekkers to the caves. The first few caves, namely Gua Batu Tangga and Gua Batu Talahup are easily assessable and if you're claustrophobic (a fear of enclosed areas), these shouldn't pose much of a problem.

Gua Tangkup, Gua Harimau, Gua Indah and especially Gua Patung may be a little more challenging. The entrances are much narrower and obscure. These caves require a bit of crawling and crouching through tunnels before entering chambers.

Gua Hijau, on the other hand is a cave showcase. The cave is cut into the face of the limestone mount and a suspended bridge over a stream connects with its entrance. Strong ammonia wafting out of the cave and the resonance of shrill squeaks is an immediate call for protective covering - a hat, poncho or large banana leaves, is handy to shelter from the guano showers. This cave is home to an impressive number of greater horseshoe bats and a couple of cave racers. These racers primarily feed on bats. It can be seen resting on a ledge high up in the cave. Here it lies in wait for evening to fall. As the daylight dims, the bats take flight from their hold. An unsuspecting bat swoops past the ledge. The racer lunges out from its hiding place -- with precision, grabs the bat and quickly recoils into its lair for a satisfying feast.

 

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Accommodation and Packages to Kuala Lipis & Kenong Rimba Reserve

Departure point for Kenong Rimba is usually from Kuala Lipis. It's better to find accommodation and packages from here.

Appu's Hotel Lipis | Hotel London | Hotel Jelai | Rumah Persinggahan Kuala Lipis (Kuala Lipis Resthouse) | Rumah Rehat Tanjung Lipis | Lipis Inn | Kenong Rimba Package Trip | Kenong Rimba 5 days 4 nights Loop Trip |