Activities at Kenong Rimba Reserve, Pahang : journeymalaysia.com

Kenong Rimba Reserve - Activities

The campsite and its animals

cave racers feed on bats

At the Kesong base camp, we had the perfect spot to pitch our tents. Well, actually we didn't have tents with us. The only bedding we had was a straw mat and a flysheet on loan from Appu. Moreover, he only had a limited supply so if need be, bring your own. We brought our own blankets and mat. Whilst the other trekkers from various groups had the privilege of sleeping indoors (Pesona Kenong chalets and longhouse), we had the privilege of sleeping under an overhang of a huge limestone massif. Although it can be a little unnerving at night, Appu pacified our nerves by building a big campfire, which was kept lit throughout the night to keep the animals away. As night falls, the jungle sounds come alive. Many of the rainforest animals sleep in the day to conserve energy for nocturnal hunting. Over the years, Appu has made a few furry friends around the campsite. The civet cat and the porcupines come along late at night to feed on scraps left aside for them. The tapir often drops by for its weekly snuff of salt supply and to snoop around the campsite. Appu is very fond of telling his trekkers the story about 'the Tapir and the Englishman'.

cave scorpion

There was once an Englishman who came to Kenong Rimba to conduct research on wildlife in the park. One night, after a heavy meal and a long day's walk in the jungle, he and his guide had retired to bed early. They were so tired that they had dropped off to sleep without building a fire to secure the night. As the night wore on, a Tapir came along in search of salt and some leftovers. Curious creatures as they are, the Tapir followed its nose on a strange scent, inching its way towards the Englishman. Sniffing happily, the squealing noise of the contented Tapir (thinking that it had found a great big salt mount), woke the Englishman. As his vision cleared, he realised that he was staring right into the nostrils of the huge animal. Frightened out of his wits, the Englishman let out a blood curdling scream and both man and beast fled in opposite directions! The Englishman, his nerves in tatters - kept vigil the entire night. The Tapir too was not about to return that night, for sure! From then on, every guide would keep a campfire burning througout the night.

crossing river

Appu has lots of jungle stories to tell..ask him about the elephants. There are two herds living in Kenong rimba; one of about 20 individuals reside in the north, closer to the Gunung Putih Massif . The herd living around the Kesong campsite are a family of only 4. There is evidence all round of their presence. There's a mudbath nearby, some elephant tracks made sometime back and even elephant dung in one of the caves. The best time to go according to Appu is when there's a full moon. When there's full moon, the elephant sometimes come play at the campsite.

The campsite is also a great place for bird watching especially closer to the riverbanks. The greater racket tailed drongos, ruft necked sharmas, the jungle mynas, a variety of bulbuls and sometimes the greater hornbills can be seen close to water sources. There is also family of Dusky Leaf monkeys residing close to the campsite. Unlike the common macaque, the dusky leaf monkeys seldom roam about on the forest floor. The hunters from the Batek tribe, frequently hunt for food in the nearby areas and monkey meat is their most favoured delicacy.

This is a firefly larvae that glows in the dark

The bateks are hunters and gatherers and they are nomadic. Their movements can be traced to the availability of food in the area. Hunting for small animals such as mousedeers, monkeys, squirrels, jungle rats and birds plus gathering edible tubers and wild vegetation can sustain them for a period of time. The Batek are fond of hunting for the great Argus pheasant. The hunter first searches for signs of its presence, which to the trained eye is not difficult at all!

The patterns are obvious. The Argus pheasant perform mating dances. The male creates a 'stage' for the dance, often he finds a nice flat spot, usually at the base of large buttress roots. He then clears this chosen spot of forest debris. Next he attracts a passing female through a series of loud alluring calls. The hunter usually seeks out these 'dancing platforms'; digs a shallow pit and booby traps them with sharp slithers of bamboo. He then overlays them with leaves. When the pheasant returns to clear his little area, he steps onto the platform. As he does so, the sharp bamboo skewers into its feet, trapping him in this snare of death. The next day, the hunter comes along to pick up the traumatised and dying bird, slings it over his shoulder and returns to camp, a happy man.

The Batek erect makeshift huts surrounding an open fire. There is an abandoned settlement close to the entrance of the park. Appu informed us that they deserted the camp only 2 weeks prior to our visit and have resettled in an area to the east. The Batek tribe roam a big part of the Pahang rainforest but each clan consists of just 10 - 30individuals. Once a year, the Batek tribes from near and far throughout the Pahang rainforest including Kenong Rimba and Taman Negara, get together for an annual festival.

Other camps and the loop

Beyond the Kesong base camp, is another campsite at the seven step waterfall some 4 - 5hours trek northwards and deeper into the jungle. Here tents are provided but again, bring your own mat if you have one. The campsite is just a stone's throw away from the waterfall. Appu knows of this little 'secret' cave at the waterfall, pester him to show you though. There are packages that schedule a day trip to the falls and back but unless you are really fit and willing, the return trip takes approximately 8 hours in total. You may not get to stop along the way to scout for birds or animals.The time schedule is tight and there are at least 14 streams and rivers to cross before arriving at the waterfall.

If you wish to complete the loop, which is seldom done, it's possible to do so in 5days. The trek takes you beyond the 2nd camp at the waterfall, through unkempt trails and more rivers, streams, mini rapids and waterfalls. It is here where there are greater chances of spotting the larger animals such as tigers, elephants, leopards, serow, binturong, cobras, a great variety of birds and even the loris. A lot of patience and perhaps even a pair of night vision binoculars could help you out. Most of the animals mentioned are nocturnal.

cats whiskers

The 3rd camp at Gunung Putih is tougher as hardly anyone ventures into the area. The trails are practically nonexistent and during heavy rains, there may be fallen trees or debris that could block the way. There is a greater possibility of spotting the Serow (our very rare mountain goat) at Gunung Putih than anywhere else in Kenong for these solitary creatures reside high up in the limestone mountains. We were also told that there is a convoluted system of tunnels and caves in the massif that is worth venturing into only if one has experience.

From Gunung Putih, there is another 20km of trekking back to the Kampung Dusun village. Usually another night's break at the 4th camp is recommended. This 4th camp is not too far from the village but gives trekkers a well-deserved break from the gruelling trek.

Summing up a trip

gua hijau

The most beautiful experience that we took away from the trip was that for 2nights, we had the rare opportunity to sleep under the canopy of the rainforest. The thought that each of us only represents a speck in such a wonderfully complex system of interdependency that we call our home. The realisation that we are not alone and there are so many living wonders that seem initially, invisible to us. As we grow accustom to the unfamiliar noises of the jungle, we catch a glimpse of life in its sublime. The sounds of the cicadas resonating through the forest, the call of the Argus pheasant deep in the night, the chattering of monkeys high up on the treetops, the melodic voices of a great variety of birds, the faraway squeals of the gibbons, the hooting of owls and the gentle droplets of water trickling off the ends of the stalactites into a shallow pool below.


4 twin-sharing chalets and a longhouse that accommodates 60people at the Kesong camp - Persona Kenong Rimba Resort. All other camps require putting up of tents

The pure abandonment of joy as we threw ourselves into the icy cold pool nearby. The large natural bathtub at a crook of the nearby river, which we apparently share with our larger friends, the elephants and the tapirs. (not together though!)

The thought of trekking around the park on ancient trails the elephants once used and to our knowledge still uses. That - is the beauty of a primary rainforest.

article written: 14th august 2001

Bird list as compiled by WWF Malaysia. (malay)

Eagles	(helang)	Crested serpent-eagle
Falcons	(falko)	Black-thighed falconet
Partridge	(siul)	Crested wood-partridge
Pheasants	(merak)	Malaysian Peacock-pheasant
Pigeons	(punai)	Pink-necked pigeon Large-green pigeon Green-winged pigeon Mountain imperial pigeon
Parrots	(nuri) (serindit)	Long-tailed parakeet Blue-crowned hanging parrot
Cuckoos	(cenok) (but-but)	Chestnut-breasted malkoha Raffles malkoha Green-billed malkoha Greater coucal Lesser coucal
Owls	(hantu)	Collared scops-owl
Nightjars	(tukang)	Malaysian eared nightjar
Swifts	(layang)	House swift White-bellied swiftlet
Trogons	(kesumba)	Scarlet-rumped trogon Diard's trogon
Kingfishers	(pekaka)	Rufous-backed kingfisher White-throated kingfisher Black-capped kingfisher
Bee-eaters	(berek-berek)	Red-bearded bee-eater Blue-tailed bee-eater Blue-throated bee-eater
Hornbills	(enggang)	Black hornbill Bushy-crested hornbill
Drongos	(cecawi)	Bronzed drongo
Orioles and bluebirds	(dendang)	Dark-throated or dark-headed orioles Asian fairy bluebird
Crows	(gagak)	Crested jay Black magpie Slender-billed crow Large-billed crow
Babblers	(rimba)	Malaysian rail babbler Black-capped babbler Chestnut-backed scimitar babbler Abbot's babbler Short-tailed babbler Fluffy-backed tit-babbler Sooty-capped babbler Moustached babbler Rufous-crowned babbler Eye-browed wren babbler Large wren-babbler Chestnut winged babbler Grey-headed babbler Brown fulvetta
Thrushes	(murai)	White rumped Sharma Magpie robin Chestnut-naped forktail Blue whistling thrush
Warblers	(perenjak)	Dark-necked tailorbird Rufous-tailed tailorbird Common(long tailed) tailorbird
Flycatchers	(sambar)	Rufous-winged flycatcher Spotted fantail flycatcher Asian paradise flycatcher
Sunbirds and spiderhunters	(kelicap)	grey-breasted spiderhunter Spectacled spiderhunter Little spiderhunter Purple-naped sunbird
Flowerpeckers	(sepah) (ciak)	Crimson breasted flowerpecker Eurasian tree sparrow