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Fraser's Hill

 

photos on our Fraser's Hill visit in 2012

Not too far from the sweltering heat of the city, lies an ethereal land high above the sea - peaceful and calming. Morning dew settles on the fronds, reflecting rainbows of the sun like windows on soap bubbles floating on a breeze. Low, lingering clouds envelop the rolling hills sweeping in chilly air and thin frail mist in the wee hours of the morning.

About 103km from Kuala Lumpur is an area of seven hills originally named Ulu Tras just coming down the Titiwangsa Range. This range is the backbone of Peninsular Malaysia which runs from the Thai border all the way down south, ending in Negri Sembilan rarely dropping below a height of 1000m.

Louis James Fraser's Hill

Some hundred years ago, when the hills and mountains on the Titiwangsa Range looked too daunting to even contemplate climbing even by the British army, Scotsman Fraser was already recruiting a handful of guides and coolies to take him on his expedition to explore the upper ridges for gold and other precious metals.After hacking his way up the last 300m (height) to the top, he came upon an enchanting forest in the clouds. The moist environment creates a sublime forest of moss-draped trees and filmy ferns. The forest looks prehistoric, feels prehistoric and even smells prehistoric.

After years of providing mule transport service between Kuala Kubu Bahru and Raub, Fraser finally found a home, 1524m up a hill and away from the gossipy colonial community down below. The reclusive Scotsman travelled to Australia in search of gold at the peak of the gold rush and yet some change of destiny brought him to Malaya.

the golf course where Fraser's mine used to sit

Perhaps the same dream of striking gold in these hills was the reason for his coming. Gold he didn't find but instead he found rich tin deposits . He stayed on and opened a mine in the 1890's and employed Chinese miners to work the area. The tin ore was then transported down a perilous route on mules, winding down the side of the range to the nearest town, Raub. To lift the spirits of his Chinese workers, Fraser operated an opium and gambling den at the camp. This shrewd method of retaining his wealth certainly worked well.The wages paid out to the coolies would more often than not find their way back into the Fraser's ledgers through these dens.

Despite his newfound wealth and status Fraser mysteriously disappeared without a trace some 25 years later. He left behind everything he had worked hard for over the years. A search party was sent by the C.J Ferguson-Davie, Bishop of Singapore to look for him. The camp and mine were found deserted. They never found Fraser. Instead they discovered the perfect place for a hill station- a retreat from the heat of the lowlands. The British authorities had always been fond of hill stations where they could build little villages reminiscent of those in their beloved homeland.

The Bishop's house; a beautiful sprawling bungalow. Now derelict and in desperate need of repairs

Besides, the ongoing war in Europe had made it difficult for these expatriates to go home on leave. Upon his return to Singapore, the Bishop wrote a report to the government indicating that Fraser's Hill was ideal as a hill station for it could cheaply and quickly be developed. In 1919, work started on the access road to the hillstation from the Gap and by 1922, the hillstation named Fraser's Hill was opened to visitors.The hill station covered 140 hectares of land and had over 50km of jungle paths. In a 1927 'Handbook to British Malaya', it mentioned that there were 9 government bungalows for the use of government officials, 4 houses built with the help of Red Cross for ex-servicemen and women, 3 private homes, a 'country club', a golf course, and water supply was complete and of course a post office.

old clock doubles up as a roundabout in town

Fraser's Hill still retains its old colonial charm and should not to be missed. It is almost as if time has stood still for the 1,000 or so residents. They go about their same old ways throughout most of the week, waiting for the weekend to bring in a trickle of guests and visitors. Most of the old stone cottages previously owned by colonial traders have withstood the weather well. In the years of the British Empire, the British families retreated to the cool hill stations during the hot seasons. The cottages here resemble those found in their English villages, equipped with a cosy fireplace and meticulously cared for garden plots. An afternoon of croquet with friends was followed by afternoon tea and evening cocktails.

old post office built in 1917

Hainanese people were employed to run their kitchens and to maintain the cottages when not in use. The Hainanese are a group of Chinese people who originate from Hainan Island in Southern China. They were taught to cook English cuisine and serve it the English way. Fiercely loyal servants, the Hainanese remained in their employment until the British finally departed. Out of employment, these people later opened the now famous coffee shops found in KL and other cities. They continued to practise their culinary skills passing on their expertise to their next of kin. A few families remain in Fraser's Hill maintaining the traditions of providing exquisite service and excellent English fare.

This hill station was also built for another reason. The British army believed that there be a place for their injured soldiers to convalesce. The Red Cross set up a little rehabilitation centre there. It has been converted into a hotel called Ye Olde Smokehouse. Instead of hospital bunks, the interior is now decorated with eclectic furniture and collectibles, some of which seems to be leaning a little toward bric-a-brac items. With open wooden beams, log fires and lithographs of the old Fraser's Hill, the place exudes fading elegance. English Tea and scones are served at the patio or in the restaurant. The rooms each with its own with individual characteristics are worth a stay in, if only to experience a little of the past.

Below are just a few of the many private bungalows on Frasers. A few of them are owned by companies that do rent out to the public. The Glen bungalow is available for rental and is owned by KTMB, our national rail corporation. So, if you know someone who knows someone who can make arrangements for you to rent, its worth the experience....

army bungalow

aubyn bungalow

cottage

cottage

glen bungalow

guthrie bungalow

lion bungalow

maybank bungalow

mmc bungalow

 

click on image below for a larger version of the map

more on frasers and the Gap...

 

Accommodation and Packages to Pahang ~ Janda Baik, Cameron Highlands, Taman Negara, Kenong Rimba Reserve, Fraser's Hill, Cherating, Pulau Tioman, Kuantan, Tasik Bera and Surroundings

Accommodation:

Bentong

| Caravan Serai Private Exclusive Villas | Tras Mutiara Hotel Bentong |

Cameron Highlands

Tanah Rata ~ | Budget Inns - Seah Ming Hotel | Orient Hotel | Kavy Hotel | Daniel's Lodge | Twin Pine Chalet | Cameronian Inn | Hillview Inn | Hotel BB Inn | Father's Guesthouse | Motels - Rumah Rehat Sri Pahang | The Cool Point Hotel | Shahzan Inn | 3 star hotels - | Casa De La Rosa | Century Pines Resort | Hotel De La Ferns | 4 star hotels - | Strawberry Park Resort | Heritage Hotel | 5 star hotels - | Cameron Highlands Resort | Colonial-styled homes & Inns - | Ye Olde Smokehouse | The Hilltop Bungalow | Bala's Holiday Chalet | Apartment - TM Resort |

Ringlet ~ | Colonial-styled homes & Inns - The Lakehouse | The MNS Chalet & Longhouse |

Brinchang ~ | 5 star hotels - Equatorial Hotel | 3 star hotels - Rosa Passadena | 2 star hotels - Rainbow Hotel | Apartment Hotels - Star Regency Hotel & Apartments |

Fraser's Hill

| FHDC Bungalows | Puncak Inn | Fraser's Hill Bungalows | Jelai Highland Resort | Fraser's Silverpark Resort | Shahzan Inn | Fraser's Pine Resort | The Gap Resthouse | Ye Olde Smokehouse |

Janda Baik

| Cherengin Hills Convention & Spa Resort | Seri Pengantin Resort | Suria Hill Country House | Wadi Samrah Janda Baik |

Jerantut

| Wau Hotel & Cafe | Felda Residence Tekam |

Kuala Lipis

| Appu's Hotel Lipis | Centrepoint Hotel | Hotel London | Hotel Jelai | Rumah Persinggahan Kuala Lipis (Kuala Lipis Resthouse) | Rumah Rehat Tanjung Lipis | Lipis Inn |

Temerloh

| Hotel Seri Malaysia |

Taman Negara Kuala Tahan

| Nusa Holiday Village | Tembeling River View Chalet | Woodland Resort | Rainforest Resort |

Taman Negara Merapoh

| Park accommodation |

Cherating

| Eastern Pavilion Cherating | Holiday Villa Cherating | Impiana Resort Cherating | Legend Cherating Resort | Residence Inn | Sanctuary Resort | Suria Cherating Beach Resort |

Pulau Tioman

| Salang | Salang Hut | Ella's Place | Salang Indah | Salang Beach Resort | Salang Pusaka Resort | Salang Sayang Tioman Resort |

Panuba Beach | Panuba Inn Resort |

ABC | Bamboo Hill Chalets | ABC(Air Batang Chalet) | Nazri's Beach Cabanas | Tioman House | Johan's Resort | Mawar Beach Chalets | My Friend Place | Nazri's Place |

Tekek | Peladang Inn | Pesona Island Resort | Babura Seaview Resort | Swiss Cottage Resort |

Genting | Japamala Resort | Minang Cove Resort |

Paya | Paya Beach Resort | Tioman Paya Resort |

Juara | Manana | Bushman |

Dive Packages Salang/ABC | B&J Tioman Dive Centre |

Kuantan

5 star | Hyatt Regency |

4 star | Seasons View Hotel | Swiss Garden Hotel & Spa | The Zenith Hotel |

3 star | Grand Continental Kuantan | Vistana Kuantan | Hotel Sentral Kuantan | Duta Sands Beach Resort | Duta Village Beach Resort | Mega View Hotel |

2 star | Hotel Seri Malaysia |

Boutique Guesthouse | Riverside Boutique Guesthouse |

Beach Resort | Black Stone Resort |

Bukit Gambang

| Bukit Gambang Resort City |

Rompin

| Hotel Seri Malaysia |

Tasik Bera

| Tasik Bera Resort |

Tasik Chini

| Tasik Chini Resort | Rajan Jones Guest House |

Trips and Packages:

Kuala Gandah Elephant Centre

| Elephant Sanctuary Day Tour |

Taman Negara ~ Kuala Tahan

| Mutiara Taman Negara Resort ex Kuala Lumpur | 2 days 1 night Fullboard Package | 3 days 2 nights Fullboard Package | 3 days 2 nights Free & Easy Package | 4 days 3 nights Fullboard Holiday Package | 4 days 3 nights Fullboard Explorer Package at Mutiara Taman Negara Resort | Fullboard Adventure Camping Trail Mutiara Taman Negara Packages |

Mutiara Taman Negara Resort ex Jerantut | 3 days 2 nights Fullboard Package at ex-Jerantut | 3 days 2 nights Free & Easy Package ex - Jerantut |

Mutiara Taman Negara Resort & Elephant Centre ex Kuala Lumpur | 3 Days 2 Nights Fullboard Package |

Mutiara Taman Negara Resort ex Singapore | 5 days 4 nights Fullboard Package |

Local Village Resorts ex Kuala Lumpur | 2 days 1 night Fullboard Package | 3 days 2 nights Full Board package | 3d ays & 2 nights Fullboard Nusa Holiday Village Package | 3 days 2 nights Free & Easy Package | 4 days 3 nights Full Board Package | 4 days 3 nights Fullboard Nusa Holiday Village Package |

Local Village Resorts ex Jerantut | 3 days 2 nights Full Board Package | 3 days 2 nights Free & Easy Package | 4 days 3 nights Full Board Package |

Local Village Resort & Elephant Centre ex Kuala Lumpur | 3 Days 2 Nights Fullboard Package |

Local Village Resorts ex Singapore | 5 days 4 nights Full Board Package |

Taman Negara Inner Jungle ex Jerantut /ex Kuala Lumpur | 3 Days 2 Nights Taman Negara Inner Jungle Adventure | 4 Days 3 Nights Taman Negara Inner Jungle Adventure |

Mountain Trekking | 9 Days 8 Nights Gunung Tahan via Kuala Tahan Trekking Package |

Taman Negara ~ Merapoh

| Mountain Trekking | 5 days 4 nights Gunung Tahan via Merapoh Trekking Package |

Combination Trips

Nature/ Highland/ Island

| 7 Days 6 Nights Peninsular Malaysia Nature & Island Trip | 9 Days 8 Nights Peninsular Malaysia Highland, Nature & Island Trip | 7 Days 6 Nights Peninsular Malaysia Animals , Nature & Island Trip |

 

Malaysia Highlands

Peninsula Malaysia Hills & Mountains

| Cameron Highlands | Bukit Chini | Fraser's Hill | Maxwell Hill | Bukit Jerai | Gunung Tahan | Penang Hill |

Sabah and Sarawak, Borneo Highlands & Mountains

| Mount Kinabalu | Kelabit Highlands (Bario) |